Lisandra Bernadet
Greenpoint, Brooklyn
Chez Ma Tante is one of those classic Greenpoint haunts that’s been popular from the jump when they opened their doors about 5 years ago. Their French Canadian flare is showcased throughout the whole menu, and despite being known for their crispy brunch pancakes, everything from the terrine to the pate is next level. This fall they revamped their dinner menu to pay homage to the gastro-pubs of London, so who better to sit down with than Beverage Director and AGM Lisandra Bernadet. Note before you read this interview that their signature negroni and ever-changing wine list are perfect, and that to us there is nothing dreamier than an afternoon drink during Apero hour on the corner of Franklin and Calyer St.
Full name, age, where are you from?
Lisandra Bernadet, 30, Chicago
What is your title and where do you work?
Beverage Director and Assistant General Manager at Chez Ma Tante.
Was food a big part of your upbringing?
Definitely! I think my mom will be ok with me saying she isn’t the most intuitive cook but my Abuelita throws down. For most of my childhood I would go to my Abuelita’s house after school while my parents worked. She was consistently in the kitchen — prepping, cooking, and cleaning. She would put me and my siblings to work. We would wash the beans, tenderize the meat, and do whatever was safe for us to do at the time. I was always a curious child, so I absolutely loved going to the grocery store with her — the seafood and butcher sections were my favorite. I wanted to understand and try it all. I have a memory burned into my brain of when I was in the first grade and we just broke for Thanksgiving break —this was also around the time I started to think about identity. I remember feeling incredibly lucky that at Thanksgiving dinner I got to eat a traditional American turkey but was also have tamales and pozole.
What are your earliest memories of dining out?
My family didn’t dine out too much but we would definitely go out to eat after church. We’d eat at Mexican restaurants or grab pizza. Easy things for a family of 6. But there was one time where my dad took us to a steak house. I can’t recall if it was actually fancy or not but it felt fancy to me. I remember my dad ordered his steak medium rare, so I held on to that and only ordered medium rare steak.
If you could give a piece of advice to someone who wanted to pursue your career, what would it be?
Read, put ego aside, and lead with empathy. In the positions I hold at Chez Ma Tante, I’m constantly learning and humbled. Being creative and supporting the growers I love is a small part of my job. The majority of it is managing a team of incredible but very different people. Asking questions like, how do we create a harmonious and challenging work environment while prioritizing memorable experiences for guests. It’s a lot of organizing, talking, gaining perspective, and reading. I think it’s very important for folks who love wine and want to be in restaurants to ultimately love people first.
What's your favorite dish on the menu?
At the moment it’s our fluke crudo in cucumber water with pickled rhubarb. It’s essentially an aguachile sin chile. It’s perfectly refreshing and familiar.
What is your favorite place to go out and eat at and what are you ordering?
This is a really tough question. Although Estela has gone through a massive overhaul, it’s still such a beautiful and timeless restaurant. Some of my favorite people have graced that kitchen and floor. I’m a sucker for the classics. Give me the endive salad, I want the arroz negro, ricotta dumplings, and if the lobster with mushrooms is on the menu — I’ll take one as well.
What are your go-to shoes to work in?
This is where my mother shows up in me. I’m not a cook but if I’m stomping around the restaurant it will most likely be in Blundstones or Salomons.
Is there anything new and exciting coming up for you?
We’ve been working super hard at Chez Ma Tante to revamp the menu and make the beverage program more dynamic. That’s primarily where all my energy has been spent and I love it. A big big hug to the team for making work feel exciting and new every day.