Fany Gerson
Bed Stuy, Brooklyn
Fan Fan Doughnuts’ owner Fany Gerson took us behind the scenes of her bustling Bed Stuy bakery. Doughnuts of every color were being dipped right in front of our eyes in a Charlie and the Chocolate Factory-type of wonder. It was hard to resist leaving with a dozen, but we compromised and opted for six. The classic doughnuts are usually our personal favorites, but their specialty flavors left us thinking more is more. The La Donna was the one that really stood out — with a black currant-raspberry icing, a piece of baked meringue, and edible flowers on top. We can see why it was special enough to name after Fany’s grandmother.
Full name, age, where are you from?
Fany Gerson, 46, Mexico City
What is your title and where do you work?
Pastry Chef, Cookbook Author, Entrepreneur & Mom
I own three companies with my husband - La Newyorkina, Fan-Fan Doughnuts & MIjo
Was food a big part of your upbringing?
Yes, food in Mexico is a big part of the culture and it’s amazing!
What are your earliest memories of dining out?
In the streets. Probably my earliest memory was going to eat tacos and we loved it! We had our favorite spots and we would go as a family. Once in a while we would also go to a restaurant that made tamales called Flor de Lys that we loved. For special occasions and only once in a while, my sister and I asked if we could go to the restaurants that served caesar salad and crepas de cajeta (goats milk caramel crepes) tableside.
If you could give a piece of advice to someone who wanted to pursue your career, what would it be?
To know that it is hard work and requires a lot of dedication and sacrifice. You are going to miss a lot of important things like birthdays, holidays and celebrations. The industry is often romanticized but it’s important to know that as that is part of it. It’s important to always stay true to yourself and always be authentic. To listen, to learn and not be in a rush to jump from one job to another just to have on your resume. There is a deep value in staying at a place for a while because what you learn is beyond the recipes. Also, ask a lot of questions!
What do you think working in this industry has taught you?
I could write an entire book about that jaja. You never stop learning. It’s taught me a lot of hard lessons. You will always make mistakes but it’s your attitude towards them that defines you. Being in hospitality teaches you that while people may not always be right, they always want to be listened to and that is true for life as well. Food is a connector to people and culture and can bridge gaps and that is very powerful. It has also taught me to value a lot of little things in life and that it can be a vehicle for change, for sharing more than just good food.
What's your favorite dish/drink on the menu?
That;’s hard because it depends on the mood but once that I never get tired of and am always excited to have
Fan Fan Doughnuts - guava and cheese doughnuts
La Newyorkina - PAssion fruit paletas sprinkled with Salted Chile
Mijo - Shrimp taco with our salsa macha
What is your favorite place to go out and eat at and what are you ordering?
That depends where I am and what I'm in the mood for! One of my absolute favorite restaurants in NYC though is Txikito. It’s a Basque restaurant that good friends own but I don’t love it just because of that. The Rodaballo and the zetas and the txipirones are my favorite dishes there. I also love Taqueria Ramirez, Semma, Yakitoro Totto, Loring Place, Shukkette, La Rina, Colonia Verde and Sobremasa to name a few.
You’re on a desert island, what are the 5 kitchen items you need to run your business?
A knife
A metal bowl
Aluminum foil
Grill Fork
Molcajete or Mortar/pestle