Fer Serrano
Williamsburg, Brooklyn
When you pull up to the Penny Williamsburg, you’re all at once transported out of the concrete landscape that is N 8th Street and into a lobby that’s somewhere we can only describe as a cros between art gallery and a space ship. You’ll then shuffle your way to the elevator, where only a few flights up you come out to (drumroll) elNico. Located at the top floor of Penny, elNico is everything you could want from a true rooftop bar and restaurant: bright, vibrant, fun, with expansive views of Williamsburg from a vantage point you haven’t yet seen. At the head of the metaphorical table is Fer Serrano, a Mexico City native whose extensive travels and family traditions have paved the way for her to helm elNico as Executive Chef. We chatted over cocktails and pulpo, getting the rundown on her earliest culinary memories, and favorite places in NYC today.
Full name, age, where are you from?
Fer Serrano, Mexico City, 30
What is your title and where do you work?
I’m the executive chef at elNico restaurant in Williamsburg
Was food a big part of your upbringing?
Yes it was, my best childhood memories were Sundays. My family would gather together and all bring a different dish to share. It was really a special moment of connecting around the table together. Throughout my childhood, my father would always encourage my brothers and I to try everything before assuming we wouldn’t like it - for example, oysters, which I now love. Because he encouraged us to be adventurous we were excited to try different dishes from around the world when we traveled - we trusted his palate.
What are your earliest memories of dining out?
My earliest memory of dining out would be at my hometown, this tiny taco spot my dad would take us after a movie night. Honestly, I never knew the actual name of the spot but we would refer to it as "Mina,” the street name where it was located. I still dream of their tacos al pastor and agua de horchata. Even now, whenever I go back to visit my parents, that's the first place I revisit.
If you could give a piece of advice to someone who wanted to pursue your career, what would it be?
Never stop learning and dare to continue experimenting. You never stop cooking a recipe once, rather, you have to make it until it’s something you're proud of. Always be curious - hungry for knowledge.
What's your favorite dish on the menu?
The Pulpo Pibil. It’s such a nostalgic dish - I serve it with these potato chips that we make in house at elNico - when I was a child, I would always stuff my sandwiches with potato chips, so I thought, why not do that with tacos? It’s been fun to see guests light up when they recall the same memory as well. For drinks, the Bidi Bidi Bom Old Fashioned is my favorite for sure. Leo Robitschek is so talented and uses szechuan pepper to make this drink really unique. It’s also named after one of my favorite Selena songs!
What is your favorite place to go out and eat at and what are you ordering?
There are so many places in New York and Brooklyn, but right now, I have found myself at Cervos often. Their fried shrimp heads and spicy mussels are perfect.
What are your go-to shoes to work in?
Air Force Ones!
Is there anything new and exciting coming up for you?
The season is changing which means our menu will change. The period of research and experimenting with my team is really fun.
Photos of interiors, taco, and crab tyaluda courtesy of Alice Gao