Telly Justice
East Village, Manhattan
Telly Justice wears many hats. She’s the Executive Chef & Owner of HAGS, a food justice advocate, and a visionary creating opportunity for more queer spaces within fine dining. Telly was kind enough to let us visit HAGS before opening, for a peek at the space (a total wonderland might we add), and a bite to eat paired with wine selected by Telly’s partner and sommelier Camille Lindsley. As some of you may know (and more of you should!!) HAGS serves a tasting menu during the week, and offers Pay What You Can for Sunday dinner. The crew at HAGS are up to something truly special, working to make delicious food accessible to everyone.
Full name, age, where are you from?
Telly Justice, 36, Philadelphia
What is your title and where do you work?
Executive Chef/Owner, HAGS
Was food a big part of your upbringing?
Not really, I didn't come from a culinary family. My parents worked hard, and there was rarely time to make a home cooked meal. Even still, meals were super important to my family. It was our one time of the day that we were all in the same room, sharing space and talking. What we ate never felt as important as simply being together.
What are your earliest memories of dining out?
As a young child, I remember my family celebrating big occasions at some of the old red sauce Italian places around our home town. Getting to eat fresh pasta, spicy meatballs, and crusty bread with fruity olive oil together as a family was a real luxury. We've all grown a bit apart, and those old dynamics are different now. I don't know if meatballs could repair it all, but the memories are surprisingly fond and my nostalgia for those food moments carries into my cuisine now.
If you could give a piece of advice to someone who wanted to pursue your career, what would it be?
This industry will try to rob you of your loves, do not let it. If you love your dog: don't let your job stop you from walking her. If you love your family: don't let your job stop you from visiting them. If you are looking to repair or maintain your loving relationship to yourself: set boundaries and protect them. Don't stop showing yourself the care you deserve. If you love cooking food, this is a love that our industry is most diligent in diluting: do not let your job damage your love for cooking. If you can come out the other side of this industry with your loves and passions still intact, you've done something remarkable.
What do you think working in this industry has taught you?
It has taught me patience, more than anything else. I know that's not the most exciting answer but it's true. The older I get and the more experienced a cook I become, the more patient I am with myself and the other cooks in the kitchen. I move slower and more deliberately. I cook slower, and I find that I get more done and the results are far better. I don't try to rush through training or moments of mentorship or emotional check-ins; I apply as much of myself to those moments as I can, no matter how busy I am.
What's your favorite dish/drink on the menu?
I really love our tempeh dish. We have been featuring the tempeh from BOSTempeh since we first opened, in different iterations, and it is always the star of the menu in my opinion. They do phenomenal work and it's a joy to share it with our guests. Their tempeh is so soft, and luscious with well balanced notes of nutty soybean and healthy, thriving mold cultures. It doesn't taste anything like the pasteurized store bought stuff. And the family that operates BOSTempeh are some of the kindest folks we get to work with. It's a real pleasure getting to build menus around artisans I really believe in; it makes my job easy!
What is your favorite place to go out and eat at and what are you ordering?
This is a hard one! Like so many lower Manhattan food workers, I have an undying love for Wu's Wonton. I always order the tofu casserole. But just half a block away, Cervo's has one of the most craveable roast chickens in the city. I dream of that chicken. Further up the street, 63 Clinton's caviar hand roll is shockingly opulent and an absolute marvel. The list goes on; Thai Diner's lobster omelette, Sobaya's shrimp shumai, Veselka's BEC pierogies, Calzone at Lucali, TOKYO MEGAMOUTH AT SUPERIORITY BURGER!! We are so fortunate to live in the greatest food city in the world, I could never narrow it down to just one dish!
You’re on a desert island, what are the 5 kitchen items you need to run your business?
The kitchen at HAGS is sparse and simple, for the most part. I think we could translate our food to a desert island relatively simply. If I have a knife and cutting board, a charcoal grill, some pots and pans - we could do most of our menu. If I'm getting greedy, a dehydrator and a juicer would come in handy as well! Not that you asked, but the absolute last thing I would bring to a desert island is a mandolin. An island is no place for bloody finger tips, and neither is a kitchen!
