Liz Kwon
Fort Greene, Brooklyn
Much like the national animal of Korea, White Tiger signifies the same courage and good fortune that its animal counterpart does. Co-owner and exec chef Liz Kwon has risen up during times of immense adversity — White Tiger had an electrical fire that put them out of business for 2 years — making decisions that were not faint of heart. Her calling stems from her Korean culture, to provide food for her community. We visited her in Fort Greene to talk about her experiences that have brought her on this path. Most interesting note? There is a right amount of spice. We visited Liz at White Tiger’s newer counterpart, White Tiger Tavern, to chat over some of her favorite dishes and drinks.
Full name, age, where are you from?
Liz Kwon. 48. Born in Seoul, Korea. Grew up in Queens/NJ. Lived in NYC, Boston, St Louis, France, Seoul (again in my 20s), Germany (even had a restaurant there).
What is your title and where do you work?
I'm the exec chef and co-owner of White Tiger and White Tiger Tavern.
Was food a big part of your upbringing?
Food is huge for most Koreans and it was for me as well. The literal translation for the most popular greeting is: "Have you eaten?" I think because food was so scarce during our parents' & grandparents' generations, food is extremely important for Koreans. It is integral to our culture and is part of our socializing...and drinking! I mean, you can't drink anywhere without ordering food in Korea.
Our take on spice is like that too. Sure, Korean food is spicy. But it's only spicy enough, that way you can eat LOTS. We're about consuming quantity; and you can't consume in large quantities if you're eating Thai chilies or szechuan peppers! Those will blow up your head! We're more about a medium spice (like the Korean chili flakes - gochugaru - or the Korean chili paste - gochujang). Something that adds heat, but that you can eat large quantities of!
And we're about snacking lots too! Growing up, I was allowed to snack (and Western foods normally fell under snacks...microwave pizza, anyone?) and eat whatever I wanted, as long as I ate 3 Korean meals (soup, rice, veg banchan, meat, fish, rice...that's 1 meal) a day! And I did! (Good thing my metabolism kept up with my eating habits!)
What are your earliest memories of dining out?
I remember eating Gan Jjajangmyun, Sam Sun Jjamppong, and Tangsooyook at a restaurant thinking it was the best thing I'd ever eaten. Jjajangmyun is a Korean-Chinese dish that is a Korean take on noodles with black bean sauce, like spaghetti. And Sam Sun Jjamppong is a seafood noodle dish that's just spicy enough and sooo tasty. They're only available at Korean-Chinese restaurants, since it's a Korean take with Chinese flavors. And Tangsooyook is sweet and sour pork or beef, but so crispy and so good even without the sauce, just dipped in a vinegar/soy sauce dip. But they're 3 of the most popular dishes in Korean cuisine. And so popular among kids and adults, alike!
If you could give a piece of advice to someone who wanted to pursue your career, what
would it be?
If you really want this, you have to understand that you have to give more than you're initially willing to. It squeezes every ounce of effort from you. And you have to be able to roll with ALL the punches. It's really hard. I don't know how I'm still here. Our first White Tiger had an electrical fire in the wall, through no fault of our own, and kept us closed for almost 2 years. I kept our chefs and some servers close by doing corporate catering during that entire time. Then there was COVID. Now, we have a second location that is about to suffer its first travails with inflation and a looming recession. None of this is easy. And it's certainly not easy cooking for paying guests and keeping them coming back. But I guess I must really love this!
What do you think working in this industry has taught you?
The importance of multitasking, flexibility, and compassion. We all get upset at guests and co-workers...but it's important to have compassion.
What’s your favorite drink or dish on the menu?
My favorite drink on the menu is probably the Seoul Sister (cucumber soju, lime juice, matcha powder, black pepper). It is like a lighter, more refreshing margarita of sorts. And I love it in the lighter months. But in the fall and winter, I love the Gangnam (whiskey infused w/fresh ginger, black peppercorns, cinnamon, lemon juice, apple cider). It's an adult version of a very traditional Korean tea called Soojoeng Gwa (cinnamon & ginger sweet tea).
My favorite dish on the menu now is the Seafood Jigae (seafood stew w/cod, shrimp, clams, tofu, veggies - served with rice and kimchi). But during brunch, it's definitely the Kimchi Breakfast Dolsot DupBap. It's a rice bowl served hot in a granite bowl with kimchi salsa, spam, pork belly, topped with soft scrambled eggs, scallions and nori. YUM!
What is your favorite place to go out and eat at and what are you ordering?
Right now, I can't get enough of Nam Son, a no frills Vietnamese restaurant in Chinatown. But the best Pho, best spring rolls, best Banh Xeo (a crispy Vietnamese pancake w/shrimp, scallions, onions, sprouts), amazing Bun Thit Nuong and crazy good fried fish!
You’re on a desert island, what are the 5 kitchen items you need to run your business?
1. a great chef's knife
2. honing steel
3. tongs
4. kitchen shears
5. large heavy soup pot
